MARDI GRAS

A very special time in New Orlenas, when parades gather families and friends to enjoy the colorful street life

Porch in Mid-City

Officially, Mardi Gras season starts on the Epiphany, January 6th. From this day on people decorate their houses and Mardi Gras colors, green, purple, and gold, will be everywhere.

My airb&b house
with Mardi Gras decoration

To succesfully approach to New Orleans Mardi Gras you should know the basic vocabulary:

Parade: Early in February you will have the complete calendar with the officials parades and their itineraries. New Orleanians know which are the good parades and go crazy about super parades. Parades are the soul of New Orleans Mardi Gras.

Krewe (Kru:) group of people involved in the organization and performance of a parade. Ex: krewe of Rex, Krew of Endymions. A krewe can have several sub-krewes.

Superparade Endymions rolling along Canal St.

Bead: bead necklaces are a symbol of New Orleans Mardi Gras. Years before beads were made of cristal; today, of plastic.

House in Marigny decorated with beads

Throws: All kind of things thrown from the floats in the parades. Traditionally, they threw only beads; today you can get frisbees, balls, toys, caps, or even shoes (Krewe of Muses throw shoes). People compete to get as many throws as possible, taking bags and shopping carts to collect them.
The famous "Throw me something, mister" is not practical and people would only raise and wave their hands yelling.

Boy well-equiped to get many throws. 

Floats: They are the main components of the parade.

Orpheus Super parade, Uptown

Bands also march with parades. Saint Augustine
was the first black band to parade with Krewe of Rex

In February the city dresses up in gold, green and purple and Krewe du Vieux starts the parade calendar three weeks before Mardi Gras. From this moment on you will have parades every weekend, and close to Mardi Gras day, everyday. All along the streets houses are open and porches bussy, as locals set parties for friends and acquaitances.

People wait anxiously for the Super Krewe parades  (Krewe of Orpehus, Krewe of Muses, Krewe of Endymions and Krewe of Bacchus). Super Krewes show elaborated floats  that carry hundreds of riders throwing myriads of things (The Super Krewe members spend many hundreds of dollars on throws).
People will compete for three or four hours trying to pick up as many throws as possible. To see Endymions, people will camp along Canal Street since two days before.
A Super Krewe Parade is a real experience.

Super Krewe Endymions along Canal St.

King Zulu 2017

On Lundi Gras you can go to the riverfront and enjoy music in the Zulu and Rex Lundi Gras celebrations. The Mayor will make a reception for the Zulu and Rex Kings in separate, ceremonies (you an go to both, as they are held nearby and not at the same time)

Zulu Lundi Gras, on the Riverfront

Rex Mardi Gras, at Spanish Square

On Mardi Gras day the turn arrives for the two historical parades: Krewe of Rex and Krewe of Zulu (black parade). They are not considered Super Krewes but are probably the main paredes. They are the oldest paredes rolling and represent tradition with original costumes and very elaborated hand-painted floats.
Krew of Rex rolled this year under the title "Carnival fêtes and festivals" (in the world) including a float representing Spanish Las Fallas.

Krewe of Rex float representing Russian Mastlenitsa festival
on Mardi Gras day

But carnival is also about costumes and local people in New Orleans enjoy dressing-up. Many costume shops open and bars host underground night markets with local costumers. Many people will wear elaborate or creative costumes, others just will throw things together.

Costume in Bywater

I went to Bywater, to a house where non-official Saint-Anne walking parade started. The house was really impressive and the host opened it for a huge number of guest all dressed-up in nice or funny costumes. We marched towards Marigny and French Quarter. The streets were awsome and cheerful. I really enjoyed it.

The hose in Bywater (the same than above)

bikers watching the parade, Marigny

House in Bywater where Saint Anne parade started

Marching with Saint Anne parade

But when we arrived at Bourbon Street I felt very disapointed: costumes disappeared and, instead, you could only see people drinking, yelling, and throwing beads from the balconies to the streets and back from the streets to the balconies. If I had been in Lloret de Mar or Benidorm you wouldn´t have noticed the difference; Bourbon St has all but glamour.

Carnival turns into an alcohol party in hectic Bourbon ST.

People throwing beads and flashing on balconies